Answers

Technically, yes, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Most water based stains like a good clean surface.

The logs will have to be sanded to get back to bare wood and then apply a clear latex finish. Call Dave at Timeless Wood Care Products for the materials that you will need. His number is 800-564-2987.

They should first be lightly sanded to remove any mill glaze. Wipe the logs down with a tack cloth. Brush all stain and topcoats. Do not spray for interior application. You may want to very LIGHTLY sand in between coats with 200 grit or smoother. NEVER use steel wool to… Read More »Archive-4244

I do not normally recommend using a chemical stripper because it takes so much water to rinse and neutralize. If you do go ahead with this process be sure to allow the logs to dry – at least a month.

Yes you could, but using a solid latex stain would be better. It looks like paint, but is more healthy for the logs. I prefer Sherwin Williams Woodscapes.

You may not want to stain if it has never had stain. I would just recommend applying a good coat of Shell Guard borate.

You could probably put a clear latex over it without any problems, but you will not be able to put the Cabot’s on it again. Latex on oil, but never oil on latex. Call Timeless Wood Care for help at 800-564-2987.

You only need to wait to chink on the corners. About 3 years. It depends on how big the logs are. I prefer Perma Chink.

Not sure what the question is, but I would recommend Osborne brushing before staining to improve the surface from blasting.

Depends on how bad it is, but if it has been more then 5 or 6 years and more than 50% of it is peeling than i would recommend media blasting it and start over.