This is always a difficult problem. You should lightly sand the new wood first to remove the mill glaze. You then will have to apply several extra coats of the stain to the new logs to make them match.If you are truly using solid stain there shouldnt be an issue.This… Read More »Archive-5862
On the exterior you will not be able to apply the botate with the Werthers on it, and I do not recommend that you usethis product for the exterior. You need to have bare wood to apply borate and have it work properly. For the interior you should wash the… Read More »Archive-5864
Sanding is your best option. The color depends on how light of stain you use. it really doesn’t matter for interior. You can go very light and it will not hurt anything.
I would recommend stripping and starting over. I like to use Life Line stain made by Perma Chink. Maintenance is the key after that to keep it looking good.
Could be how it was applied, ???
My opinion is to use latex (water based). Almost all products are latex based for log homes now. You will get a better chemical bond between these products if you stick with latex. Perma Chink Life Line stains are my favorite. The key to all of these stains, latex or… Read More »Archive-5872
Try talking to your local Sherwin Williams to see if they can mix a Woodscapes Stain to meet your needs.
Perma Chink makes a product called Advanced Clear Coat. You should run a line of chink on your sill log to make the water run away from the house.
Try using a shop vac with a stiff brush to get as much dust out of the cracks first. Then was with Log Wash from Permsa Chink http://www.permachink.com/logwash.htm
First, you cannot apply a borate unless you have bare, unstainedwood, so don’t waste the money. If you have the old Sikkens Cetol 1 & Cetol 23 stain on your house now, you should use Cetol Log & Siding. If the original stain was the Sikkens SRD, then I would… Read More »Archive-5880